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I actually think it will work. BA is out of business so whatever is available in the market place is it. I believe I read that our system is 2ohm and this speaker comes in both 2 and 4ohm so looks like you picked the right one. I spent a few minutes yesterday trying to see how I could get the standard sub out but it wasn't super obvious.
 

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was anyone able to figure this out? I am trying to figure out a Bass solution, I have the premium sound package and I can live with the highs and Mids but there is no bass. Im not looking to impress anyone outside the vehicle but I would like to hear more depth inside the cabin.
 

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was anyone able to figure this out? I am trying to figure out a Bass solution, I have the premium sound package and I can live with the highs and Mids but there is no bass. Im not looking to impress anyone outside the vehicle but I would like to hear more depth inside the cabin.
You may have to re-progam the amp.
There are lots of solutions, what specific information are you looking for?
 

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was anyone able to figure this out? I am trying to figure out a Bass solution, I have the premium sound package and I can live with the highs and Mids but there is no bass. Im not looking to impress anyone outside the vehicle but I would like to hear more depth inside the cabin.
Tell your service department to raise your DB on the amp to 10. You will have Bass.
 

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You may have to re-progam the amp.
There are lots of solutions, what specific information are you looking for?
if there is an option where I can replace the current sub in the back with something more powerful and add an amp without having to disturb the rest of the factory system, that would be ideal. I hear that our subs are oval shaped so this may not be possible in addition I assume we would need to have some sort of enclosure as well to get the full effect. Thanks
 

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if there is an option where I can replace the current sub in the back with something more powerful and add an amp without having to disturb the rest of the factory system, that would be ideal. I hear that our subs are oval shaped so this may not be possible in addition I assume we would need to have some sort of enclosure as well to get the full effect. Thanks
The scope of work depends on the size of the sub you want. The subs are oval 6x9 (or the closest metric equivalent.) They are also mounted in a raised plastic shell and sit above the opening in the parcel shelf about 1 1/2". You would be able to fit a smaller sub or a low profile sub, but either way you need to cut a mount that would mount to the parcel shelf and raise the sub. You could also enlarge the opening in the shelf by cutting the metal. Or, you can order the B&W sub for around $150 vs. $110 for the premium sub.
As far as an amp, you already have an HK amp which is driving the sub. It's line in and line out so you could intercept that signal with a mono amp if you want.
 

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Even after putting my sound system to 10db, I still wanted some more bass without rattling the rear deck like crazy.


I ended up putting a JL audio 10" sub box and amp I had from the car I traded in. It's not too big, takes a little bit of trunk space, but the improvement is immense. I took the entire rear deck off, removed the stock sub, added some dynamat and grabbed the signal wire from the stock sub. I couldn't see any other way of accessing the signal wires, as on my car the plug is on top, in between the parcel shelf and the sub. Someone else posted they could get to the wires from below, but I couldn't on mine.


I also bought a PAC TR-4 thinking I could use it for the amp turn on. Turns out the signal is not strong enough from the speaker lead and the amp would turn on for a moment and then turn off, I tried two different TR-4's, so unless I had two defective ones, the signal is not strong enough. I ended up having to find a 12v ignition wire in the fuse box next to the battery. Not the best solution, but it works.


With the old sub removed, it basically provides a way for the bass from the JL box to get in. I will put the stock sub back in and take the amp out when I return the car on lease.
 

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I did the same thing as JMAT above. I'm re-posting the information below that I had put in a different forum about the replacement sub I put in.

Replaced Subwoofer:
I have a Ghibli S Q4 with the premium audio system and like everyone else have been very disappointed by the audio system. I leased the car so I did not want to invest in a big aftermarket solution. After reading all the posts I decided to replace the OEM subwoofer in the back deck with a boxed 10in subwoofer in the trunk and a dedicated amp (with a dial control). We removed the OEM sub-woofer to provide venting and added dynamat. Overall I'm very happy with the results compared to where I was with the premium system. It's not as good as my previous BMW 550 with an upgraded system but its a big step up. Bass sounds terrific now and no vibrations. Advantage of this solution is it does not mess with the current amp and it's an easily reversible install when I turn the car in. Spent $800 for entire job.
 

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Funny, I mounted my sub in the exact same spot. Only difference is I mounted my amp on the front of the box facing the seat.

Did you have to grab a 12v ignition wire from the fuse box or were you able to grab a turn on lead from the stock amp or use the speaker leads? If so, can you tell me which wire or how you did it?

Thanks,

Jason
 

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As I was looking at the pic I just posted, I noticed one of the black caps for the screws was missing. Just searched the trunk and found it. Thankfully, I don't have to spend the long weekend obsessing over it now.
 

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I added a Kicker all-in-one enclosure and it adds just enough to the premium sound system without too many rattles or overwhelming bass. The enclosure was $300.00, easy to install and tap into the existing wiring. I also disconnected the factory subwoofer to avoid any dash rattles.


Chris
 

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Funny, I mounted my sub in the exact same spot. Only difference is I mounted my amp on the front of the box facing the seat.

Did you have to grab a 12v ignition wire from the fuse box or were you able to grab a turn on lead from the stock amp or use the speaker leads? If so, can you tell me which wire or how you did it?

Thanks,

Jason
you can get it from the 12V power outlet on the right.
 

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I added a Kicker all-in-one enclosure and it adds just enough to the premium sound system without too many rattles or overwhelming bass. The enclosure was $300.00, easy to install and tap into the existing wiring. I also disconnected the factory subwoofer to avoid any dash rattles.


Chris
did you get the signal from the stock sub? that look neat, I may have to do this then. I like the bass, but not too much overkill. this may do it.
 

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did you get the signal from the stock sub? that look neat, I may have to do this then. I like the bass, but not too much overkill. this may do it.
Yes, but only use one of the audio line feeds, either the left or right. If you use both, it will cause issues with the stock amp and it will cut in/out sporadically, major PIA. I tapped into the REM from the 12V outlet in the trunk as well, very easy install and it does not consume much trunk space at all.
 

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Yes, but only use one of the audio line feeds, either the left or right. If you use both, it will cause issues with the stock amp and it will cut in/out sporadically, major PIA. I tapped into the REM from the 12V outlet in the trunk as well, very easy install and it does not consume much trunk space at all.
Also, if you want the bass, it is there, but I have gain and bass low as not to be obnoxious, those days are behind me... :)
 

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Hi All --- my Ghibli has the base audio package...with apparently no subwoofer; just a hole in the trunk where it's suppose to be!

Does anyone know if the wiring is there to plug and play a sub or I would need to get custom wiring done to get the sub installed?
 
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