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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All

I'm going to add a subwoofer to supplement the B+W system which sounds wonderful at low speeds but needs some extra grunt on a motorway;

I've got a few decisions to make:
1) Remove existing sub and use the hole to mount the subwoofer enclosure, or as a port to the boot
2) Leave sub in place and try and tune the subwoofers to complement each other.

2) sounds a little complicated.


also : need to decide whether to
A) use a PAC interface to a get a full range audio signal for the sub,
B) use a Linecontrol LC6i (which I already have lying about) to get a subwoofer signal from the subwoofer speaker out
or
C) Hack into the loom of the rear quarter amp as there is likley to be a full range 5v line signal going there form the head unit. For this - i'll need pinouts or a lot of gumption.

This might also be influenced by my decision of 1) or 2) as it would be easier to tune them to complement each other if they are both responding to an identical signal without any timing issues.

Anyway - I'll be updating this thread with my progress and any problems I experience along the way. First step is to work out if I can plug the PAC unit into the rear quarter amp (see attached picture) or if it intended to go behind the screen and plug through the screen interface. I'm reliably informed there is unlikely to be room behind the screen once i've installed the carplay interface. That might force my hand to use the LineControl interface.

I have a rockford fosgate amp and shallow 10" sub ready to go in, so it's offering up time i guess :D

Any advice or experience offered is very welcome :D

20679
 

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No clue how big the car play interface is, but my installer stashed a LC7i behind the factory screen with plenty of room... I didn't have the B&W upgraded system, so we replaced all the factory speakers with Hertz components... I did attempt to run a B&W subwoofer in the factory spot of a JL amp and it did not sound good at all, combined with a ton of rattle from the rear deck that hush mat did little to help. Ended up just adding a JL sub in the trunk that provided more than enough low end for me...
 

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No clue how big the car play interface is, but my installer stashed a LC7i behind the factory screen with plenty of room... I didn't have the B&W upgraded system, so we replaced all the factory speakers with Hertz components... I did attempt to run a B&W subwoofer in the factory spot of a JL amp and it did not sound good at all, combined with a ton of rattle from the rear deck that hush mat did little to help. Ended up just adding a JL sub in the trunk that provided more than enough low end for me...
It's both the size and the cable management that makes the CarPlay unit extremely awkward sitting behind the screen. It has to sit diagonally and the cables running from both sides take up the rest of the space... It also has a WiFi antenna haha
 

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Discussion Starter #4
No clue how big the car play interface is, but my installer stashed a LC7i behind the factory screen with plenty of room... I didn't have the B&W upgraded system, so we replaced all the factory speakers with Hertz components... I did attempt to run a B&W subwoofer in the factory spot of a JL amp and it did not sound good at all, combined with a ton of rattle from the rear deck that hush mat did little to help. Ended up just adding a JL sub in the trunk that provided more than enough low end for me...
Well it looks as if the PAC system option A) basically does the same as C) for me so this would make the most sense.


20687


Just need to pop the boot liner out and have a nose at the amplifier plugs. If I'm lucky, I can get power, accessory and 5v RCa for the subwoofer from the boot without touching anything else :D here's hoping. If so this would be officially the easiest subwoofer install in the history of subwoofer installs.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hmmmm......

Not sure about the PAC unit....lots of users complaining of terrible noise interference with or without ground wires, talk of ripping it out for an LC6 instead.....

amazon reviews are echoing the discussion in this thread:


Think I might try the line converter unit instead, since I already have it. Cant get cheaper than free.
 

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I have the same high white noise with the LCI... Audio Control, Hertz and JL Audio all said it was to be expected to some degree with the Maserati's head unit... I can turn the gains down enough on the LCI and Amp that it isn't audible but things like cell calls are tough to hear than,,,,
 

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I have the same high white noise with the LCI... Audio Control, Hertz and JL Audio all said it was to be expected to some degree with the Maserati's head unit... I can turn the gains down enough on the LCI and Amp that it isn't audible but things like cell calls are tough to hear than,,,,
OK that's a shame; well since I'm only adding a subwoofer and I currently don't have any noise, I think adding the LC6i on the subwoofer output only, and running a high cut for the subwoofer output should hopefully allow me to add the subwoofer without imparting noise to the full range speakers, or the new subwoofer. I may create some hiss that i cant filter from the shelf subwoofer. Another benefit is I should find myself almost correctly timed with the fronts - only delay factor is the delays associated with running through the LC6i. Or I can use the speaker in of the amplifier which is probably a solid state solution to minimise delays.

I think I may leave the existing sub in place as looking at the picture I'm guessing it also serves a low mid/high lows purpose for the rears. If i get the two subs in phase it might work out OK. I can always disconnect / remove the sub later if it doesn't work out. This solution might require cutting some ports in the parcel shelf to relieve the b+W sub from the new subwoofer pressures..........

I'm already overthinking this. I'm going to work on a "do no harm" basis and simply add the new sub first and then take it from there.
 

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Just noticed on another thread from a pro installer on this forum - I can't quite be certain but it looks like the pac unit can plug in by the amplifier in the boot. the installer also said its not plug and play so you'll probably have to rewire the pins to match the Ghibli pinout. One other interesting point from the thread is they mention that with the Premium amp - the bass output from the amplifier starts to distort at volume 22.

That's not relevant to the Bowers and Wilkins amplifier but worth considering. My dear papa has a scope - ill ask to borrow it.....
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It wasn't overly hard to do, but if you can avoid pulling the factory sub you are saving yourself a bunch of time too
 
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