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Discussion Starter #1
Once again I'm amazed at the bang for the buck you get from Nu Finish.

Here is my Ghibli SQ4 Gransport, which has Opti-Coat pro ceramic coating applied, a 4 digit job.

And here's my GT MC that I just applied a coat of Nu Finish on (excuse my half built garage lol). There's one of her out in the wild too. No previous ceramic coat that I'm aware of was applied.

Can you really tell one job cost $1000 more than the other??? Personally I don't think so. But the ceramic coat should in theory last 3-5 years versus 1 year max for nu finish. But again at only $10? a bottle, hard to beat that bang for the buck...
 

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I applied a ceramic coating on my Sq4 Nero Ribelle 2 years ago, the worst , I would never spend money again on this. when it rains, water stays on the hood and I drive with a lake, I hate this ! Also when entering in a heated Garage in winter, my car will immediately get covered by condensation dropplets and fog. horrible.
 

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Once again I'm amazed at the bang for the buck you get from Nu Finish.

Here is my Ghibli SQ4 Gransport, which has Opti-Coat pro ceramic coating applied, a 4 digit job.

And here's my GT MC that I just applied a coat of Nu Finish on (excuse my half built garage lol). There's one of her out in the wild too. No previous ceramic coat that I'm aware of was applied.

Can you really tell one job cost $1000 more than the other??? Personally I don't think so. But the ceramic coat should in theory last 3-5 years versus 1 year max for nu finish. But again at only $10? a bottle, hard to beat that bang for the buck...
Both cars look great!!!

Over my car(s) ownership I've used cheap wax,(waxed my first car Formula 455 monthly), upgraded to airplane wax, Dyna Glaze, Nu Finish, Mothers, and finally to Zaino program when I got into deep black SUV's. I too was surprised by NuFinish.

Since 2014, I moved up to GTechniq and Ceramic Pro at much higher prices. I prefer the GTechniq as it beads better and longer, plus easier for me to top off ... that is all I've used on the Ghibli. No real complaints with Ceramic Pro other than price and somewhat less beading on my black SUV.

In short, this really boils down to the quality of the base paint and clear coat on car + paint preparation to give the reflective deep shine that everyone wants to see. What one tends to miss is protective and hydrophobic nature of the harder coatings ... technically you need to reapply less often to maintain gloss and protection. I tend to think in terms of layers, (paint + clear + hard layer + wear layer). I wipe on a sport or lite coating to a fresh washed car more frequently to add depth and also be the wear layer.

My wife's former Jaguar had old fashioned Mothers professional blend and Ghibli had GTechniq. They both got bombed with seagull or some kind of big bird poop at the shore and baked in the very hot sun while parked outside during a vacation. The bird droppings on Ghibli literally curled off the finish, which I was able to wash off, while on the light blue Jag the bird poop etched the paint surface that normal washing didn't remove, (even higher grit compounding couldn't get it all out). Might be an extreme case, but going forward, I'm using the higher end coatings that bind to the clear coat on properly paint corrected car and add maintenance coats.

I wouldn't be surprised if there wasn't some high end coating on the GT MC applied by dealer or owner at some point in its life ... regardless it looks really aggressive and sporty. Every time you post a picture of your MC makes me want one too!!!
 
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Discussion Starter #4
Well said! I agree the cost can be justified because of the added protection like you mentioned. And it's too soon to say on the MC with the Nu finish coat, but my Ghibli retains that shiny gleam even when it's dirty. But shoot, if I'm trying to save a few (thousand plus) bucks and can't shell out over a grand at that moment, Nu Finish is a great way to make your car look fresh while adding some basic protection on the cheap.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I applied a ceramic coating on my Sq4 Nero Ribelle 2 years ago, the worst , I would never spend money again on this. when it rains, water stays on the hood and I drive with a lake, I hate this ! Also when entering in a heated Garage in winter, my car will immediately get covered by condensation dropplets and fog. horrible.
Which ceramic coat did you use? You're literally the first person I've ever heard regret getting it done. I don't experience this condensation or fogging. And the water beads right off my car. What you describe doesn't sound right.
 

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Which ceramic coat did you use? You're literally the first person I've ever heard regret getting it done. I don't experience this condensation or fogging. And the water beads right off my car. What you describe doesn't sound right.
Ceramic pro was applied, but as I already had a XPel on the surface, It might affect the efficiency of the Coat. my dealer certainly wanted to make money ;) I definitely would never do it again if you have a film protection on top of the paint.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ceramic pro was applied, but as I already had a XPel on the surface, It might affect the efficiency of the Coat. my dealer certainly wanted to make money ;) I definitely would never do it again if you have a film protection on top of the paint.
Good to know, but sorry you had to find out the hard way, I didn't know that wasn't a good mix either
 

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Another alternative is to go with Optimum Gloss-Coat; it's the consumer-grade version of Opti-Pro. Instead of 5+ years of protection, you get about 2-3 years out of a DIY kit that costs about $50 or so. I had some time on my hands so I did a full exterior detail on my car with all Optimum Products. Optimum No-Rinse (ONR) followed by claying, Hyper Compound, Hyper Polish, Paint Prep, then Gloss-Coat. To allow adequate curing, I finished it all off with a coat of Opti-Seal. Excuse the photo quality, but the shine doesn't capture as well on a silver car.
20456
 

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Another alternative is to go with Optimum Gloss-Coat; it's the consumer-grade version of Opti-Pro. Instead of 5+ years of protection, you get about 2-3 years out of a DIY kit that costs about $50 or so. I had some time on my hands so I did a full exterior detail on my car with all Optimum Products. Optimum No-Rinse (ONR) followed by claying, Hyper Compound, Hyper Polish, Paint Prep, then Gloss-Coat. To allow adequate curing, I finished it all off with a coat of Opti-Seal. Excuse the photo quality, but the shine doesn't capture as well on a silver car.
I've heard good experiences with the Optimum products ... glad it's working well for you. Car like nice and shiny from your picture.
 

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Honestly, it's impossible to tell from the pictures you posted. You could put any wax on and take that pic and it will look like a million bucks. Take a pic in full sun, close up of the Nu Finish and let's see the swirl marks. That's the difference. A professional ceramic job cured by IR light involves multi-step paint correction to remove swirls and several layers of ceramic pro cured by IR light. All ceramic jobs weren't created equal. If you only paid $1,000, you didn't get a wheels off, mutli-step job guaranteed for life. I almost cheaped out and took the $1,500 package. Mine cost a bit more and I will tell you, I have only washed the car with water once since March. EVERYTHING wipes off like butter, including calipers and wheels.

That said, from a distance in low light, ceramic or a good wax/polish is impressive. For me, what I said above about maintenance is worth every penny. I like a spotless car and ceramic made it so easy to keep clean.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Another alternative is to go with Optimum Gloss-Coat; it's the consumer-grade version of Opti-Pro. Instead of 5+ years of protection, you get about 2-3 years out of a DIY kit that costs about $50 or so. I had some time on my hands so I did a full exterior detail on my car with all Optimum Products. Optimum No-Rinse (ONR) followed by claying, Hyper Compound, Hyper Polish, Paint Prep, then Gloss-Coat. To allow adequate curing, I finished it all off with a coat of Opti-Seal. Excuse the photo quality, but the shine doesn't capture as well on a silver car. View attachment 20456
that looks really nice, how long did it take you? can i pay you do do mine? lol
 

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that looks really nice, how long did it take you? can i pay you do do mine? lol
Thanks! From start to finish took about 4 hours, the longest part being the compounding and polishing steps. I followed the tutorials I found on YouTube. Optimum’s products are surprisingly easy to use and many of the steps overlap. For example, you can complete the clay towel step while you are washing (immediately after applying ONR with the sponge and before drying the car off).

I am sure that a professional paint correction and the professional coating (Opti Coat Pro+, if I’m not mistaken), will look much better with even better durability, but not counting my time, I probably saved myself about $1000.

As far as payment, you would be much better served by a professional (but thanks for the offer, hehe). I think they have their dealers listed on the Optimum Polymers website.
 
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