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2014 Maserati Ghibli SQ4
3 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I would like to share my learning experience on this engine with people who may be interested in some deeper insight or answers.

Backstory: I purchased my 2014 Ghibli SQ4 (79kmiles) with a known bad engine (rod knock). Upon removing the engine I found it was already a used replacement since it had salvage yard markings. I tore it down and it was just too far gone. Multiple spun rod bearings and spun mains along with grooved cylinder walls. Our local machine shop didn’t have the tooling for line bore and at that time I had no leads on over size bearings or pistons. So I purchased a used engine with 55k miles. After installing I only received just over 1k miles before it too lost a rod bearing (should have checked filter before install). I was able to save this engine and rebuild the bottom end.

During the rebuild process I did find a few notable items. I read a lot about oil pump failures on these engines but don’t think that was my case. The oil pressure was fine on this engine. In fact I was planning on cleaning and reusing the pump because of the price. It was only after I found an affordable replacement from melling did I decide to replace it. M-528 was the model I used from the jeep 3.6. Autozone had it in stock as well as the timing chains. While I was tearing the engine down I notice it was the #1 rod that lost the bearing. I also found the #1 main bearing was nearly gone as well. It looked like it had been scoring for quite some time. As far as what caused the failure, the only sure thing I could find wrong was that the #1 main journal on the crank was tapered. Clearance was .002 tapered down to .001 or so on the tight end. I even flipped the crank 180 and put the last journal in there to make sure it wasn’t the block. It was the crank.
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Timing- it took a few tries and some research but eventually I nailed it after finding a couple repair manual pages. I highly recommend purchasing the alignment tool as there is no crankshaft timing mark and you will want the plates to hold the cams while you’re making fine adjustments. There really is also some sort of a mystery here. When I took the engine apart I never removed the cam gears or even touched the bolts. So I didn’t think much of them when trying to time it. So I put it together once before I had the timing tool and just lined up all the marks with the chainlinks etc. started it up, drove around. Got timing codes. So I ordered the tool, took it apart and retimed it. Once I had it
running again it threw the same codes. Took it apart AGAIN and finally found the key. You have to have 12 chain pins between the timing marks on the cams up top. The only way I could achieve this was by loosening the cam gears and turning them just slightly to fit one more tooth over. That is what solved it. Keep in mind that I never touched the gears until that time so I’m not sure how they could be a tooth off. All the cams were labeled and installed where they originally came out.

I’ve Attached some images for reference. Hopefully this has been insightful. I wish I had more pictures but after continuing issues I was never sure what was going to be right or wrong.

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· Registered
2014 Maserati Ghibli SQ4
3 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yes, you have that correct! This is at least the 4th engine/rebuild going in just this car.
1) Original engine.
2) Salvage engine in car w/rod knock when I purchased.
3) Salvage engine I purchased to put in the car.
4) My rebuild on the salvage engine.

The oil cooler is actually in the "v' of the block below the intake manifold and fuel rails. So this is something that would likely stay with each engine and not be transferred. The used engine (boat anchor) i purchased came with the manifold on it with a "warranty void if removed" sticker. Warranty was only 30 days. I put a brand new Maserati oil filter and oil when i put this in. I wish I would have checked the valleys of the old oil filter when i removed it. The only oil related part that was reused was the turbo chargers which of course I flushed thoroughly. Even then, the particles would be going into the oil pan/filter.

Yes I used the Jeep 3.6 oil pump. I am glad I could find one made by an aftermarket just incase there is an actual issue. I absolutely hate the design of this pump. Some sort of 2 stage deal with blades that shift outwards with centrifugal force. Wish I had taken a picture. I've never seen one like this in an engine I built but may just be a newer design. Also something that bothered me was the design of the oil pick up tube. 1) It's plastic. 2) the diameter seems excessive perhaps cutting down velocity/suction pressure. 3) the oil pump screen is being located at the top end of the oil pan rather than at the bottom as i'm used to. It is also in a large cavity more than halfway up the tube. It just seems like a recipe for disaster to me. Easy to get an air bubble. Or if the plastic tube cracks and you can't get proper suction.... In my opinion I think some more conventional thinking would be beneficial. I looked into the jeep 3.6 oil pump because i haded it so much but could not use it because the deep part of the sump must be at the rear of the engine instead of the front like ours.... which again might be another small issue.

Think of this with the average joe: the oil change interval is what every 12,000 miles? ok, guarantee most people driving these cars don't check the oil and probably expect the car to check it for them. 12,000 miles on oil in a twin turbo engine a lot can happen. The oil running through hot turbos certainly degrades the film strength (yes i know they are "cooled") but that will still be more abuse than a standard naturally aspirated engine. The ring gap it typically wider on turbo application allowing more blowby and oil to be burned. So after 12k miles you probably lose at LEAST a quart but i would guess 2. Then you're at 11,999 miles on the last oil change, your film strength is degraded, you're 2 quarts low, you floor it and all the oil you have goes to the rear of the engine where the pickup tube ISN'T next thing you know you could be sucking air at a time when you need maximum oil film strength, and luck just to keep from grenading the engine normally.

Oh and put all that on top of the fact that the main bearing was tapered on this crank and presto metal on metal contact. Which I believe would cause a loading/support issue at any rpm. There is a reason they have taper limits I'm sure of it.

Keep your oil topped off and change it every 5k I would suggest.

I'm not sure if jeep is having this problem but they also did have the oil pump in stock... so that must be some sort of indication of demand.

I have over 1,000 miles on this rebuild so far and still going strong. I have changed the oil twice, and been through 10 oil filters just checking for metal particles so often. So far so good.

I would like to say I've had really good luck with oil filters. I once took an oil pan off a mitsubishi I turbocharged and did some grinding in the crankcase. Cleaned up what I could but I'm sure i didn't get it all. Also had a oil return come off on the highway lost all oil with that same engine and made it to a parts store parking lot. Still ran for over a year without issue 10k+ miles before I sold it and i bet it's still going.
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