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Hey guys i just had my 2017 SQ4 in for maintenance and they said my brakes are in need of replacing as there is only 2mm left on the pads. Which ok it has 25k miles on it I am sure new pads are in order. I asked the guy what all was involved and how much it would cost and they said that I needed to replace the rotors at the same time. I asked if they measured the rotors and he just said they replace them together and its $2511 to have it done on all 4 corners.

It's obviously too much money for a brake job, so I will likely just do it my self. My question is do the rotors really wear out this quickly? They don't seem to be warped or anything that I can feel under braking.

Seem's like I could just do the pads and call it day.
 

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The rotors maybe fine, but many times service will want to replace both to get best performance. The rotors have worn with the pattern of your old pads, so adding just new pads isn't optimum.
That said, many have changed pads alone and were fine, while a few have changed pads and come back later to do the rotor since they were not happy with the end result.

You can buy the factory pads and rotors for about 1/2 the price and pay a local indy to install ... there is no Maserati magic in this setup.

I bought spare pads, but after hearing some of the comments/concerns on only changing pads, I'll likely do rotors at same time.
 

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Thanks @BeerGuy that makes sense to me. The other factor for me is that my lease ends in December, so I don't want to put a ton of money into the car right now. I think I will just do the pads and call it a day. Performance my not be optimum but as long as its as good as it currently is and safe I am good with that outcome.
 

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i'll slightly elaborate on what beerguy stated, which he is spot on:
my dealership also tries to do rotors with pads because the possible/likely outcome is brake noise and vibration at some point, whether it is near immediate or within a few thousand miles. if you look at your rotors, you'll likely see a deep lip around the inner and outer contact areas of the rotor. that is the depth the rotors have worn. if you wanted to be technical, you can use a rotor gauge and measure the remaining thickness and gauge it against the min spec that is etched into the hat of the rotor. in my experience, the first set of pads will wear a rotor down to near the minimum thickness, which means the next set will take it to below minimum thickness. the pads on these cars are aggressive.
additionally, if you look at the face of the rotors, you'll likely see a grooved pattern going around it, which is the wear pattern the pads put into it. the new pads will be flat and will wear into the grooves over time.
next up after that, the shiny glazed surface of the rotors won't improve, and noise with possible vibration will be the next step after that.
safe they will be, but less than ideal performance and experience at best.
when my shop did do just pads for customers at their request, they were back complaining that their brakes pulsate and/or make noise, trying to fault us. now we make those folks understand what they are potentially buying into.

i'd also look into what lease turn in requirements are.
 

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I never understood why people balk at not doing the rotors with the pads. They aren't that expensive. New Pads on New Metal = Smooth Stopping. The days of "turning" rotors are over. Most all manufacturers call for new pads and new rotors with a brake job regardless of the thickness.
 

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I never understood why people balk at not doing the rotors with the pads. They aren't that expensive. New Pads on New Metal = Smooth Stopping. The days of "turning" rotors are over. Most all manufacturers call for new pads and new rotors with a brake job regardless of the thickness.
machining is far from over, i've turned a quite a few maserati rotors over the years. i don't feel comfortable about turning cross drilled/vented rotors, but lathes are marketed and sold as capable to do it. base levantes, ghiblis, and older QP/GTs had flat rotor options, so those are machinable.
the bigger concern is the wear, as the pads are really aggressive on the soft rotors. many manufacturers have reduced the thickness of their brake rotors to reduce unsprung weight and increase fuel economy. this also means less life out of the rotors as they can't go through 3-4 sets of pads in their life anymore. the reduced thickness from re-use also raises the potential for hot spots to form, as there is less material to dissipate heat across.
 

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I've just turned mine, drilled all the holes with a 4mm drill bit, to clean the rust and dust stuck inside I also re-did all the chamfers of each hole, installed DTE pads, on which I chamfered the starting edge.

The breaking is back as new if not with more bite, and no noise....
Really pleased with the operation.
Once gone through this set of pads I will replace the disks/rotors.

I did 43 000km with the 1st set of pads.
Originals disks are 32mm thick, they were down to a bit less that 31mm, I turned them to 30.5mm so they will need replacing in another 40 000km. Not bad going for the way I drive.
 

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I've just turned mine, drilled all the holes with a 4mm drill bit, to clean the rust and dust stuck inside I also re-did all the chamfers of each hole, installed DTE pads, on which I chamfered the starting edge.

The breaking is back as new if not with more bite, and no noise....
Really pleased with the operation.
Once gone through this set of pads I will replace the disks/rotors.

I did 43 000km with the 1st set of pads.
Originals disks are 32mm thick, they were down to a bit less that 31mm, I turned them to 30.5mm so they will need replacing in another 40 000km. Not bad going for the way I drive.
Sounds like a lot of work to save a few hundred bucks.
 

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Hi Joe,
Was 120€ for the disks/rotors and 65€ for the pads, plus a bit of time, 1/2hr to clean and chamfer the holes, then 2hours to mount the disks/rotors and replace the brake fluid (3 years) my place is pretty dry, so the fluid does not get polluted with humidity very fast.
Ref for the pads for whoever is interested. ATE 13.0460-4806.2
Or if people prefer Brembo's

I reckon the whole operation for 185€ + 10€ for fluid is pretty good, would be around 1500€ here at the dealer, so worth a bit of time spent on it.
 

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Hi Joe,
Was 120€ for the disks/rotors and 65€ for the pads, plus a bit of time, 1/2hr to clean and chamfer the holes, then 2hours to mount the disks/rotors and replace the brake fluid (3 years) my place is pretty dry, so the fluid does not get polluted with humidity very fast.
Ref for the pads for whoever is interested. ATE 13.0460-4806.2
Or if people prefer Brembo's

I reckon the whole operation for 185€ + 10€ for fluid is pretty good, would be around 1500€ here at the dealer, so worth a bit of time spent on it.
Thanks. Both axles I assume in your math? Dealer said I was close to needing rear brakes last month and wanted to do them. I forget what the price was but when I added up the cost of the parts from Scuderia it wasn’t that bad vs bringing my parts to an indie. I guess the question is Brembo or aftermarket.

In the end I went out and looked at the rear brakes in the shop. The tech showed me them and told me I was 2-3k miles away from the sensor being triggered. I reasoned with him as to why should I do them now? Aren’t I taking 2-3k miles off the life off the new brakes that don’t have to be installed today. He agreed. I’ll wait for the light and figure out what to do, but I’m leaning towards the dealer. I am not a DIY'er anymore.
 

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Hi Joe,
Maserati service prices in Europe (France) are crazy. 900-1000€ for a 20 000km service!!!
This was for the front axel only.
As I enjoy maintaining my car, I don't count my time, and I'm 100% sure it is done with care.

I agree with you, if you get the dealer to do it, then go to the wire.
 

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My 20000km services in INTINI Maserati garage in Luxembourg was 645 euro and car washed & cleaned and they gave me a Levante SQ4 for the day .. it is a minimum
but I am under warranty ,, bought new
 
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