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Discussion Starter #44
Did you get the 36mm in the original link?

I posted in the other lighting thread (http://www.ghibliforum.com/forum/electronics-audio-lighting/10985-rear-plate-light-10.html) that some clips from factory appear to be looser than other and would benefit from the tighter fit a 38mm bulb would give. The looser contact point seems to cause just enough power disruption to throw codes at times. Those that have swapped out to the larger units haven't had any issues afterwards. Shoot an email to [email protected] to get an exchange.
 

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Got it, they were the second set you sent me. Will send you an email.


Did you get the 36mm in the original link?

I posted in the other lighting thread (http://www.ghibliforum.com/forum/electronics-audio-lighting/10985-rear-plate-light-10.html) that some clips from factory appear to be looser than other and would benefit from the tighter fit a 38mm bulb would give. The looser contact point seems to cause just enough power disruption to throw codes at times. Those that have swapped out to the larger units haven't had any issues afterwards. Shoot an email to [email protected] to get an exchange.
 

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So I switched out all four door lights and license plate lights. Wow the licence plate lights are SUPER bright. Almost too bright. The door lights are so so. Overall I'm satisfied, however, I managed to break the plastic clips on three of the four door pieces. Anyone have any idea where I could get replacements? I'm assuming the response will be the dealer. Guess I couldn't figure how to pry them loose? Or the weather was pretty cold and they snapped due to the temp.

Thanks in advance for the help.
 

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...however, I managed to break the plastic clips on three of the four door pieces. Anyone have any idea where I could get replacements? I'm assuming the response will be the dealer. Guess I couldn't figure how to pry them loose? Or the weather was pretty cold and they snapped due to the temp.
These plastic clips are super fragile. I didn´t even manage to get the lights out of the door after I already broke one clip and knew that I had to act very carfully! I got the replacements from the dealer, you guessed it. But, they are surprisingly cheap. If I remember right, I only payed about 50 Euros for all 4 replacement lights. By the way: I changed the lights in summer. So low temperature is not responsible for the fragility. I guess the lights were just not designed to be removed after they have been installed.
 

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Great upgrade. Did my trunk and license plate lights. Trunk is a huge difference. Best ever high value low priced mod. I cam see Inside the trunk now! Haven't had the car out at night yet to see the license plate bulbs in action. I got mine off of Amazon and so far no codes or problems. Links below.
Highly recommended, great bang for the buck!


2014 New Canbus Build in T10 W5w 192 Super Bright 180 One Side Panel LED Light




AKILULU® (Pack of 2) Ultra Bright 12pcs AK-4014 Chipsets 1.42 inches DE3175 DE3021 DE3022 3175 LED Interior Map Dome Lights side door Courtesy Non-Polar Xenon White 600LM 6500K+ Hot sale


 

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Discussion Starter #51
So had a chance to take a look at the reverse lights tonight. Successfully swapped them out and they look a lot better now. Pure white and brighter. Here's the steps...

Step 1: Remove the plastic cover plate to expose the two screws holding the tail light down:


Step 2: Remove the two screws with a hex tool:


Step 3: Open the false wall in the felt liner inside the trunk:


Step 4: This is where it gets tricky and might be impossible if you have big hands. If you look inside, you'll see a plastic screw extender stick on the inside that's holding the headlight in place from the inside. There's a path for you to stick your hand in and grip it and hand turn the stick to release the screw:


Step 5: Pull out the tail light unit. Be careful with the cords. Might be a little tight so just wiggle it a bit to loosen it up, but there's nothing left holding it down:


Step 6: Twist out the reverse light from the back of the housing:


Step 7: Replace the bulb with a 194/T10/w5w LED replacement:


Step 8: Work backwards to put everything back in... and you're done!

Here are some quick snap pics I took with a camera phone. Kind of hard to make out, but it's brighter and whiter. The whiter works better from an aesthetics standpoint, the brighter helps from a safety standpoint as you'll be noticed more when reversing.




These are the LEDs I used. 850 lumens which is really bright. These are canbus units so plug and play error free. Constant current IC chip built in to regulate power.

194/ 168/ T10/ 2825/ 2821/ W5W LED (5000K) V5.1 [194 168 T10 2825 2821 W5W] - $19.00 : AZN Optics, Your SOURCE for Automotive LED and HID Lighting!


Enjoy!
 

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I have a question on these LEDs. My question relates to the heat generated by the bulbs in small enclosed spaces. I know LED runs cooler than equivalent incandescent, but when you crank up the wattage with the LED, I wonder if excess heat is an issue.


I had a client who made LED fixtures and sold them to manufacturers in automotive and aerospace. He said every fixture is changed before swapping incandescent for LED and the biggest engineering issue when putting bright light in small spaces is heat sinks. Sometimes the LED circuit board is the heat sink and sometimes what it's plugged into is the heat sink or both. Maybe these dim Maserati bulbs where put in there for a reason. I don't know. The LED certainly looks a lot better.


I'm wondering if AZNWHIP can examine the bulbs he has replaced and let us know if there are any signs of heat issues. Hopefully, with the bulbs going on and off all the time, there isn't one. Tail lights may be a different matter. It would be nice to know first hand.
 

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Discussion Starter #53
Heat will always be there on canbus units as the integrated resistors. However the heat level should be comparable to halogen bulb heat. I'm going to take a laser thermometer to it though and take readings. However, reverse lights have ample clearance and are only on briefly on reverse scenarios.
 

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Axnwhip,
Have you had any luck with the footwell lights? Those seem to be the only ones this thread hasn't covered yet. I also took some pics once I removed the panel in case they would help. Thanks!








 

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Discussion Starter #55
Axnwhip,
Have you had any luck with the footwell lights? Those seem to be the only ones this thread hasn't covered yet. I also took some pics once I removed the panel in case they would help. Thanks!
Yeah, I got about as far as you did. Looked like it's an integrated unit that can't be easily swapped. Not too hard to do something custom. Just need to cut/desolder the wires and splice in an alternative LED unit. Not plug and play, but can be done. Didn't want to hack up my car till if/when I decide to purchase after lease is up.
 

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Expand on Step 4... please ..!!!

can you please expand on step 4? I tried removing the tail light but i don't see screw extender stick through the cutout. I would really appreciate if you can take a snap of it ... thank you
 

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Discussion Starter #57 (Edited)
can you please expand on step 4? I tried removing the tail light but i don't see screw extender stick through the cutout. I would really appreciate if you can take a snap of it ... thank you
Hard to get a pic of it, but the screw extender doesn't stick through the cutout, it's buried inside . My advise is to stick your hand in blind and try to work it past the cables in the direction of the back of the taillights. You can see in step 5 where the screw should be on the top end of the housing so aim for behind that. Feel around till you feel the extender. Either that or crawl inside the trunk with a flashlight so you can see from a better angle.
 

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Discussion Starter #59
FYI, those are basic canbus LEDs with just resistors slapped on and no other chip components and the wedge are old outdated 5050 design model. Will still work, but won't be as durable and 5050 chipset have been known to flicker easily over time.
 

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FYI, those are basic canbus LEDs with just resistors slapped on and no other chip components and the wedge are old outdated 5050 design model. Will still work, but won't be as durable and 5050 chipset have been known to flicker easily over time.
I guess time will tell..
 
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