Grab tight and twist left ...it's tough to get but just need a nice gripTrying to change the reverse lights. I had no difficulty finding the long plastic screws holding the tail lights ... But not sure how to unscrew those since they are screwed pretty tight
Very tough, I tried using a tool but not easy cause there is not much space in thereGrab tight and twist left ...it's tough to get but just need a nice gripTrying to change the reverse lights. I had no difficulty finding the long plastic screws holding the tail lights ... But not sure how to unscrew those since they are screwed pretty tight
Ok... had a couple hours to kill so took a look. Played around with the footwell, could reach behind to where the connector was, but couldn't figure out how to disconnect the bulb by touch so would have to remove the bottom plastic shield which didn't feel like figuring out for now so went on to the rear dome as that seemed like the less daunting of the interior.
With a plastic wedge tool, working around the edges, it was fairly easy to pop the housing off:
![]()
As you can see the rear dome housing is held by 6 clips (2 on each long side, and 1 on short side:
![]()
There are three bulbs in there that can be removed from the rear plug by the twist knob (I removed the center one to show):
![]()
All three bulbs use 194 wedge bulbs and plug right into the twist socket as shown here:
![]()
Now here's the tricky part and took me the better part of 2 hours trying to puzzle this back... The housing unit is attached by clipping into a metal floating bracket that clamps it down between the headliner. The problem is, the bracket is floating and without being able to get my hand behind to brace it as I push the housing back in, I couldn't catch the clip. I tried all the tools I had... angled pick tool was very close (and sliced 3 fingers), but couldn't get all sides to clip in.
![]()
Took a frustration break to step back and look at it again and decided to try dental floss. I looped dental floss on all the clip holes, pulled down and pushing the housing up. 6 extremely satisfying clicks later, finally was done.
![]()
I'm going to assume that the front dome is similar and also uses 3 sets of 194 wedge LEDs as the housing looks fairly similar. For the front dome, I might be able to apply back pressure by way of opening the moonroof and see if there's a gap to the bracket. Project for another day.
Anyways enjoy.
You don't see the images?Can you upload this pictures they are not opening.
Now i doYou don't see the images?
You can find pics of my license plates, reverse, trunks, and puddles here: linkSo can someone summarize this thread of best current (11/2016) led product options for trunk, puddle and license lights please-
Quality, Fit and Safety then brightness functunality?
Can you post a picture of the bulb/ Is it T10?My front right turn light bulb is shot. What's the right sku to purchase a replacement? Thx!
Do u know how many light bulbs are in a 2014 ghibli tail light?Heat will always be there on canbus units as the integrated resistors. However the heat level should be comparable to halogen bulb heat. I'm going to take a laser thermometer to it though and take readings. However, reverse lights have ample clearance and are only on briefly on reverse scenarios.
2 per side that you can replaceDo u know how many light bulbs are in a 2014 ghibli tail light?
Your post is absolutely awesome as I was shocked to discover such a modern car uses incandescent light bulbs to illuminate the trunk/boot etc and that very ineffective and use more battery than LEDs - why did these use a 100 year old technology for that? Oh, right, because it’s cheap! I am getting the LEDs. Thanks!Ok, so I'm slowly going through the vehicle figuring out what the bulbs are and how to swap out. Wanted a place to document this so others can reference if they also wish to change out.
So there's another thread (www.ghibliforum.com/forum/electronics-audio-lighting/10985-rear-plate-light.html) where I found the rear plates use 36mm festoon LEDs so won't get into that too much, but the ones I have are these:
6411/ 6413/ 6418/ C6W LED 36mm (5000K) - $20.00 : AZN Optics, Your SOURCE for Automotive LED and HID Lighting!
The interior trunk uses two 194 wedge bulbs and are a simple clip cover that slides off by shifting the cover to the side. The inner region of the bulb cover flips/pivots off. I've swapped them for bright white LED version which does a better job illuminating the trunk space. The ones I have are these:
194/ 168/ T10/ 2825/ 2821/ W5W LED (5000K) V3 [194 168 T10 2825 2821 W5W] - $19.00 : AZN Optics, Your SOURCE for Automotive LED and HID Lighting!
OEM:
![]()
Popped cover out:
![]()
Pivot open cover to access and remove bulb:
![]()
Swapped for bright white LEDs:
![]()
Comparison between OEM on left and LED on right:
![]()
Under the front and rear side doors are your puddle lights which help illuminate the ground before you step out of your car and can save your shoes from stepping in something you'd rather not. These use four 194 wedge bulbs and utilize the same clip cover as previously mentioned. You probably didn't even know you had these puddle lights and that's simply because the OEM bulbs just aren't bright enough. Put in bright white LEDs and functionality becomes obvious. Once again, I used these from AZN Optics:
194/ 168/ T10/ 2825/ 2821/ W5W LED (5000K) V3 [194 168 T10 2825 2821 W5W] - $19.00 : AZN Optics, Your SOURCE for Automotive LED and HID Lighting!
Popping off cover and pivoting to gain access to the OEM bulb:
![]()
OEM light as reflected on ground:
![]()
Replaced with bright white LED:
![]()
LED Light as reflected on the ground:
![]()
Captured comparison between front door with LED and rear door with OEM:
![]()