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Discussion Starter #21
Homelink can be a pain. Best to do the same thing in the morning and it will work. Seems like this for me. Make sure you clear out all saved codes. I think you need to hold down 1 and 3 until the lights blink. Then hit your lean button and hold down 1.

On the sound issues, if the reboot doesn’t work, maybe your car needs a software update?
Now I am starting to get frustrated.

I went for a drive because I haven't driven it at night yet. Pandora via CP was fine, volume works. Finally....I always drive with Waze on, even going to the grocery store. Never know where a cop is hiding out. I click on Waze on the console and - back to no volume controls. Gah. Maybe when I get the CarPlayAir, this self resolves. I hope so, anyway.

Homelink - yeah, did that. Most are the same: hold down 1 and 3, wait until it flashes quickly, and that clears it. Then hold down button you want to program and the remote at the same time. Light flashes 3-4 times slowly, then rapidly as it is supposed to, but garage door doesn't respond.

My software version is 16.50.50 - I looked for ways to update it on MTC+, but didn't see anything and reading through older posts here it looks like something that is done at the dealership. Fun.
 

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Now I am starting to get frustrated.

I went for a drive because I haven't driven it at night yet. Pandora via CP was fine, volume works. Finally....I always drive with Waze on, even going to the grocery store. Never know where a cop is hiding out. I click on Waze on the console and - back to no volume controls. Gah. Maybe when I get the CarPlayAir, this self resolves. I hope so, anyway.

Homelink - yeah, did that. Most are the same: hold down 1 and 3, wait until it flashes quickly, and that clears it. Then hold down button you want to program and the remote at the same time. Light flashes 3-4 times slowly, then rapidly as it is supposed to, but garage door doesn't respond.

My software version is 16.50.50 - I looked for ways to update it on MTC+, but didn't see anything and reading through older posts here it looks like something that is done at the dealership. Fun.
Ok, you know the drill on Homelink, keep at it. Sometimes it’s just a matter of going over the procedures which you have.

On the sound, so your issues are just with CarPlay right? Volume works fine for straight BT, SiriusXM, Radio and SD Card. The CarPlay2Air won’t resolve this. You need to get the direct wired CP sorted first. Things to try if you haven’t:

  • delete the CarPlay setup from the phone. Settings/General/CarPlay
  • delete your phone from the car. Go to Bluetooth in MTC+ settings and remove every phone
  • on the iPhone, settings, Bluetooth and “forget this device”
  • do not plug it back into USB until you done all of the above and rebooted your phone. Make sure all you phone apps including Waze is up to date.
    - make sure your lightening cable is OEM. Can’t hurt to try another.
CP does use the cars Navigation system signal in the background. I’ve seen reports where getting a phone call over CP or using voice NAV instructions can cause sound issues until you unplug and replug. It kind of remembers the NAV or Phone volume and doesn’t go back to Audio volume. This doesn’t sound like your issues but worth noting. I don’t use turn by turn voice and I don’t get many phone calls.

Try the steps above and start over with CP. Clean everything out. I would plug it in CP before you repair the BT.

I’ll check my software version later to compare.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Ok, you know the drill on Homelink, keep at it. Sometimes it’s just a matter of going over the procedures which you have.

On the sound, so your issues are just with CarPlay right? Volume works fine for straight BT, SiriusXM, Radio and SD Card. The CarPlay2Air won’t resolve this. You need to get the direct wired CP sorted first. Things to try if you haven’t:

  • delete the CarPlay setup from the phone. Settings/General/CarPlay
  • delete your phone from the car. Go to Bluetooth in MTC+ settings and remove every phone
  • on the iPhone, settings, Bluetooth and “forget this device”
  • do not plug it back into USB until you done all of the above and rebooted your phone. Make sure all you phone apps including Waze is up to date.
    - make sure your lightening cable is OEM. Can’t hurt to try another.
CP does use the cars Navigation system signal in the background. I’ve seen reports where getting a phone call over CP or using voice NAV instructions can cause sound issues until you unplug and replug. It kind of remembers the NAV or Phone volume and doesn’t go back to Audio volume. This doesn’t sound like your issues but worth noting. I don’t use turn by turn voice and I don’t get many phone calls.

Try the steps above and start over with CP. Clean everything out. I would plug it in CP before you repair the BT.

I’ll check my software version later to compare.
So annoyed.

I've done everything, even chatted with Apple for an hour, backed up phone, updated iOS, restarted, used different lightning cable. I've deleted Waze and re-installed it. I've muted Waze. I've unmuted Waze and turned the volume to zero. I've turned the Waze volume up. I've deleted the car from CarPlay and added it back. I've removed Bluetooth altogether. This happens on all apps that play sound - not just Pandora. I've now sent an email to Waze, but I am not hopeful they'll be able to help. Oh, also, this doesn't happen on other map apps - music/pandora/podcasts play with volume controls if I use Google Maps instead of Waze. But I need to know where cops are due to my Leadfoot Syndrome.

One thing I didn't mention, which doesn't matter but - this is exactly what happens:

Play any kind of app with sound - even music locally on my phone. Plays fine on like all speakers. Launch Waze and the sounds suddenly changes - like only the speakers in the back of the car are playing. And then no volume controls - if it started at 15, it stays there. By the way, this is why I thought it wasn't very loud before: because I was playing Pandora, at like volume 20, then launched Pandora. When I turned it up, although the volume level appeared to go to 38, it was really stuck at 20.

Looks like I am relegated to GoogleMaps, which I despise.
 

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So annoyed.

I've done everything, even chatted with Apple for an hour, backed up phone, updated iOS, restarted, used different lightning cable. I've deleted Waze and re-installed it. I've muted Waze. I've unmuted Waze and turned the volume to zero. I've turned the Waze volume up. I've deleted the car from CarPlay and added it back. I've removed Bluetooth altogether. This happens on all apps that play sound - not just Pandora. I've now sent an email to Waze, but I am not hopeful they'll be able to help. Oh, also, this doesn't happen on other map apps - music/pandora/podcasts play with volume controls if I use Google Maps instead of Waze. But I need to know where cops are due to my Leadfoot Syndrome.

One thing I didn't mention, which doesn't matter but - this is exactly what happens:

Play any kind of app with sound - even music locally on my phone. Plays fine on like all speakers. Launch Waze and the sounds suddenly changes - like only the speakers in the back of the car are playing. And then no volume controls - if it started at 15, it stays there. By the way, this is why I thought it wasn't very loud before: because I was playing Pandora, at like volume 20, then launched Pandora. When I turned it up, although the volume level appeared to go to 38, it was really stuck at 20.

Looks like I am relegated to GoogleMaps, which I despise.
Well the good news it’s not the car. It’s definitely relayed to waze. I use Apple Maps. Integrates nicely with my calendar, Siri and remembers my patterns and makes suggestions.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Well the good news it’s not the car. It’s definitely relayed to waze. I use Apple Maps. Integrates nicely with my calendar, Siri and remembers my patterns and makes suggestions.
Seriously, I am about to scream now for a new reason: my fob is dead.

And my new issue as of this morning: got a message on the dash that my fob battery was low as I was leaving the house. I put it in Park and it stalled (?). Not sure if it is related, so I was afraid to drive it anywhere without replacing the battery. I've replaced the battery in fobs on many cars, no big deal. Happened to have an extra battery, and have the tools to take it apart so I did. And after putting a new battery in it, it doesn't work. I took it apart again, made sure everything is correct, still nothing. I put the old battery in it just to see, and it is still dead. Doors were locked, so used the valet key to open and when I did, alarm sounded. Awesome. Thankfully, I was quick and read that you can use the nose of the fob to start it, which I did, and disabled the alarm. The second fob I was provided never worked, and I am afraid of disassembling that one without breaking it. I am also afraid of locking it as unlocking with the valet key will set off alarm again. Super frustrated.

Going to call the broker who sold me this car and see if he knows what I can do. This is silly.

By the way, I misspoke above - it does work with Apple Maps, but not Waze or Googlemaps - and I think Google owns Waze so that makes sense. I doubt Waze will be able to tell me why that happens.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Seriously, I am about to scream now for a new reason: my fob is dead.

And my new issue as of this morning: got a message on the dash that my fob battery was low as I was leaving the house. I put it in Park and it stalled (?). Not sure if it is related, so I was afraid to drive it anywhere without replacing the battery. I've replaced the battery in fobs on many cars, no big deal. Happened to have an extra battery, and have the tools to take it apart so I did. And after putting a new battery in it, it doesn't work. I took it apart again, made sure everything is correct, still nothing. I put the old battery in it just to see, and it is still dead. Doors were locked, so used the valet key to open and when I did, alarm sounded. Awesome. Thankfully, I was quick and read that you can use the nose of the fob to start it, which I did, and disabled the alarm. The second fob I was provided never worked, and I am afraid of disassembling that one without breaking it. I am also afraid of locking it as unlocking with the valet key will set off alarm again. Super frustrated.

Going to call the broker who sold me this car and see if he knows what I can do. This is silly.

By the way, I misspoke above - it does work with Apple Maps, but not Waze or Googlemaps - and I think Google owns Waze so that makes sense. I doubt Waze will be able to tell me why that happens.
G0DDAMMIT I AM AN IDIOT. BATTERY UPSIDE DOWN. GAHHHHH....LOL, this is why I pay other people to pay attention to details for me at work. :)
 

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Have you tried disconnecting the negative battery lead for 30 seconds?
 

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Edit I see now you got the battery right. But this also resolved lots of gremlins.
 

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2017 SQ4 with 19,000 miles on it. All in with new tires, including tax and everything was $37,900.

I cannot wait to drive it - getting brakes and oil change now - and holy sh** expensive for just minor stuff.

I assume every time I take this to the shop I will shell out 3 grand....?

But I am excited to drive it...Gorgeous car, sounds beautiful and cannot wait to take it out for a spin....
Not sure someone said already but if you can do it yourself it will cost you about $125 for oil and $39 for the filter. Breaks you can buy from amazon for $122 for pads. It is very easy to figure it out. The car is very sample.
 

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Not sure someone said already but if you can do it yourself it will cost you about $125 for oil and $39 for the filter. Breaks you can buy from amazon for $122 for pads. It is very easy to figure it out. The car is very sample.
LOL, going out on a limb here, but given the battery experience, I don’t think he is doing his own oil changes. Nor am I.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
LOL, going out on a limb here, but given the battery experience, I don’t think he is doing his own oil changes. Nor am I.
Not to mention, I thought the car was stalling out. Then I realized I was messing with the MTC+ settings and turned on the Engine Stop feature so it shuts off at stoplights. Which I hate. One of the reasons I drive this car is because I love the sound of it.

So, yeah, oil changes ain't gonna happen, much less brakes.
 

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Not to mention, I thought the car was stalling out. Then I realized I was messing with the MTC+ settings and turned on the Engine Stop feature so it shuts off at stoplights. Which I hate. One of the reasons I drive this car is because I love the sound of it.

So, yeah, oil changes ain't gonna happen, much less brakes.
Speaking of the Auto Stop Start (ASS) "feature", it is on by default with every start up and has to manually shut off in the center cluster menu which is a pain. That said:

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ASS is off in Sport Mode, so if you drive in Sport Mode, nothing to worry about.

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My ASS in Normal Mode is intermittent. My car will go weeks without it working when it says it's on. No complaints. The outside temperature and the cars temp come into play whether it is on or not, BUT, mine not working on a 70 degree day really has no rime or reason. I'd say 80% of the time in Normal Mode, ASS isn't even there.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Speaking of the Auto Stop Start (ASS) "feature", it is on by default with every start up and has to manually shut off in the center cluster menu which is a pain. That said:

1
ASS is off in Sport Mode, so if you drive in Sport Mode, nothing to worry about.

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My ASS in Normal Mode is intermittent. My car will go weeks without it working when it says it's on. No complaints. The outside temperature and the cars temp come into play whether it is on or not, BUT, mine not working on a 70 degree day really has no rime or reason. I'd say 80% of the time in Normal Mode, ASS isn't even there.
Interesting. I am in Sport Mode pretty much 100% of the time. Likely when it shut off, it was one of the few times I wasn't. I wish there were default settings you could set so it is always in Sports Mode upon startup, but whatever.

Also, more info on CarPlay issues: it isn't just me, and it is a somewhat recent phenomenon:


But this person on that thread or on Reddit said there is a workaround: every time you launch Waze, turn the sound on the app on, then off and your volume controls return. Which worked. So check another thing off my list.

I am now past all of the issues I was having - except HomeLink, which is a minor annoyance since I can use the remote. Some day I will be patient enough to continue to try until it "takes".
 

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Interesting. I am in Sport Mode pretty much 100% of the time. Likely when it shut off, it was one of the few times I wasn't. I wish there were default settings you could set so it is always in Sports Mode upon startup, but whatever.

Also, more info on CarPlay issues: it isn't just me, and it is a somewhat recent phenomenon:


But this person on that thread or on Reddit said there is a workaround: every time you launch Waze, turn the sound on the app on, then off and your volume controls return. Which worked. So check another thing off my list.

I am now past all of the issues I was having - except HomeLink, which is a minor annoyance since I can use the remote. Some day I will be patient enough to continue to try until it "takes".
Unplugging the negative battery lead in the trunk might clear out the homelink settings and resolve your issues. The negative battery lead has a quick release on it. I have done this a few times to resolve issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Unplugging the negative battery lead in the trunk might clear out the homelink settings and resolve your issues. The negative battery lead has a quick release on it. I have done this a few times to resolve issues.
Interesting, I will try that.

Also, I got the CarPlay2Air device today, and it still doesn't solve my problem. When it is plugged in, it is still too large to shut the door where the USB port is, and where your phone can slide in. This is the whole reason I purchased this: so I could close that small door and have no wires anywhere. I thought maybe I could plug it into the USB in the back seats, but that doesn't work, either. How did you get that little door to close when the CairPlay2Air device is plugged in?
 

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Interesting, I will try that.

Also, I got the CarPlay2Air device today, and it still doesn't solve my problem. When it is plugged in, it is still too large to shut the door where the USB port is, and where your phone can slide in. This is the whole reason I purchased this: so I could close that small door and have no wires anywhere. I thought maybe I could plug it into the USB in the back seats, but that doesn't work, either. How did you get that little door to close when the CairPlay2Air device is plugged in?
I thought I linked to the cables you need to accomplish this. There is a thread with links. You need a flat ribbon cable with an adapter.

Look back in this thread or search on threads I started.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
I thought I linked to the cables you need to accomplish this. There is a thread with links. You need a flat ribbon cable with an adapter.

Look back in this thread or search on threads I started.
I was, and possibly still am, confused - thought you were saying that the Air device solved your problems and that you could close the door when using it. The post you linked to seems to talk only about the flat ribbon cable and an adapter so I thought you linked the incorrect discussion.

Those Air devices are expensive ($160) and I am returning it. If I can't close the door, I have no use for it. Instead I'll buy the ribbon and adapter as discussed.

Thanks for helping me, even when I might be a bit dense at times....
 

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I was, and possibly still am, confused - thought you were saying that the Air device solved your problems and that you could close the door when using it. The post you linked to seems to talk only about the flat ribbon cable and an adapter so I thought you linked the incorrect discussion.

Those Air devices are expensive ($160) and I am returning it. If I can't close the door, I have no use for it. Instead I'll buy the ribbon and adapter as discussed.

Thanks for helping me, even when I might be a bit dense at times....
Happy to help! No, my motivation for wireless CarPlay was to not have my phone tied to a long ugly cable every time I got in and out of the car to use CarPlay. I have gotten used Bluetooth for this convenience but that leaves a lot to be desired in terms of interface with my music.

I want my phone free to scan through a drive through or keep in my pocket. And yes, glance at it not tied to a cord. The CarPlay2Air has been seamless for me. In terms of closing the door, that is more of a wish list thing but got less important through ownership. That said, the flat cables are the only thing that will allow you to close the door wired or with the wireless dongle.

I have both seamless wireless CarPlay and a a closed door. If I need a charge which is rarely, I have replaced the lighter between the cup holders with a nice flat usb charger. I keep a cable in the center console for this and guests if I need to pull is out. The cable I bought is black and coiled. So looks short and small but extends. Too bad you returned the CarPlay2Air, it works perfectly with our cars.
 

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Also if you change your mind on the CarPlay2Air, I still have one I’ll sell you for $125 which is what I paid for it shipped. Not making any money and losing on shipping to you.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Also if you change your mind on the CarPlay2Air, I still have one I’ll sell you for $125 which is what I paid for it shipped. Not making any money and losing on shipping to you.
Thanks for the offer but I despise not being to shut that door. Just ordered that ribbon 90 degree USB from Amazon. I think it is coming from Mars since I won't get it until July, but I couldn't find it anywhere else.

Also, Waze (google) replied - they've identified the sound issue and will be fixing it in their next update.
 
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