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This is one of very few posts that involves paddle installation on the Ghibli, and as others have noted I could find no other source of information or video anywhere that specifically addresses the Ghibli. Thanks to Ian Tang, mpra1999, Bianco and others for their instructions on the topic. While the provided info is good, without pictures it was very challenging to complete with any confidence. PLUS, I found a way to do the install without removing the clock spring assembly or the entire steering column cover. Hope the following helps (2015 MY).
Air bag and wheel removal are quick and easy, as described elsewhere; two bolts (4mm) on either side of wheel behind plastic caps and air bag is off. For air bag connectors, lift each orange plastic tab up first (flat head screw driver), and connectors remove easily. Disconnect white horn lead.


I removed and replaced my wheel twice during this process and did not have to mark its orientation, and since I did not remove or spin the clock spring, it all went back on perfectly lined up and working properly. Steering wheel is held by a bolt which takes a 10mm socket (not shown). Mine required a fair amount of torque but it released without too much trouble. Unclip black connector, slide bag wires through and set wheel aside.
Next is the top cover surround – it is held with four plastic hook-shaped clips which take careful fiddling to remove, but it will come off (plastic auto trim tool helps).


The lower column cover is held on by the same plastic clips, three on each side. A flat head screwdriver may also help carefully disconnect the hooks, though watch for slipping/scratch damage.
The harness connector for the paddles was taped tightly with electrical tape to the side of another connector; separate them.

From here looking up from underneath you can see the welded steel base that the paddle bolts to; all that is in the way is the large yellow harness connector on the lower right.


Pinch the back of this connector and it should slip out fairly easily. Slide the paddle bracket up under the column and rest it on top of the base; from behind, screw in and tighten the four mounting bolts (you’ll have to buy these – 6mm, about 12mm long worked for me). Clip in the paddle harness connector; clip in the large yellow harness connector. And then reverse the disassembly process.
I did not purchase a new to column cover – just using a Dremel tool cut the pre-marked rectangular section from the stock cover. Looks great, fits around paddle as expected.

I did not purchase an angled/longer signal lever assembly. I found that there was lots of clearance above the top of the column cover to shim the paddle arms up/forward slightly toward the driver and away from the signal lever. Three small washers combined with slightly longer bolts (4mm x 10mm) snugged the paddles down perfectly (2.5mm hex). No touching, and room for fingers around the steering wheel.

I got no codes other than from disconnecting the air bag (red air bag light indicates service required – will eventually clear that code). Horn, radio, etc work as usual. Paddles fully function and shift gears whether in Drive mode or in Manual mode, and without any dealer intervention. When shifting while in Drive mode, a long pull on the + paddle returns the vehicle to Drive (it also eventually times out…). No paddle icon on dash, but seriously don’t care as ‘M’ shows up when engaging paddles and you already know when you are using the paddles. Note, when turning the vehicle on for the first time, I found the set wheel position remained at the top (since the harness was disconnected). One press of the seat memory button and all returned to normal.

All in I paid $300 for a pair of take-off paddles and a few cents for extra bolts (not counting what clearing the air bag code may entail….). And, once I knew what I was doing, the project took about 2 hours.
Air bag and wheel removal are quick and easy, as described elsewhere; two bolts (4mm) on either side of wheel behind plastic caps and air bag is off. For air bag connectors, lift each orange plastic tab up first (flat head screw driver), and connectors remove easily. Disconnect white horn lead.


I removed and replaced my wheel twice during this process and did not have to mark its orientation, and since I did not remove or spin the clock spring, it all went back on perfectly lined up and working properly. Steering wheel is held by a bolt which takes a 10mm socket (not shown). Mine required a fair amount of torque but it released without too much trouble. Unclip black connector, slide bag wires through and set wheel aside.
Next is the top cover surround – it is held with four plastic hook-shaped clips which take careful fiddling to remove, but it will come off (plastic auto trim tool helps).


The lower column cover is held on by the same plastic clips, three on each side. A flat head screwdriver may also help carefully disconnect the hooks, though watch for slipping/scratch damage.
The harness connector for the paddles was taped tightly with electrical tape to the side of another connector; separate them.

From here looking up from underneath you can see the welded steel base that the paddle bolts to; all that is in the way is the large yellow harness connector on the lower right.


Pinch the back of this connector and it should slip out fairly easily. Slide the paddle bracket up under the column and rest it on top of the base; from behind, screw in and tighten the four mounting bolts (you’ll have to buy these – 6mm, about 12mm long worked for me). Clip in the paddle harness connector; clip in the large yellow harness connector. And then reverse the disassembly process.
I did not purchase a new to column cover – just using a Dremel tool cut the pre-marked rectangular section from the stock cover. Looks great, fits around paddle as expected.

I did not purchase an angled/longer signal lever assembly. I found that there was lots of clearance above the top of the column cover to shim the paddle arms up/forward slightly toward the driver and away from the signal lever. Three small washers combined with slightly longer bolts (4mm x 10mm) snugged the paddles down perfectly (2.5mm hex). No touching, and room for fingers around the steering wheel.

I got no codes other than from disconnecting the air bag (red air bag light indicates service required – will eventually clear that code). Horn, radio, etc work as usual. Paddles fully function and shift gears whether in Drive mode or in Manual mode, and without any dealer intervention. When shifting while in Drive mode, a long pull on the + paddle returns the vehicle to Drive (it also eventually times out…). No paddle icon on dash, but seriously don’t care as ‘M’ shows up when engaging paddles and you already know when you are using the paddles. Note, when turning the vehicle on for the first time, I found the set wheel position remained at the top (since the harness was disconnected). One press of the seat memory button and all returned to normal.

All in I paid $300 for a pair of take-off paddles and a few cents for extra bolts (not counting what clearing the air bag code may entail….). And, once I knew what I was doing, the project took about 2 hours.